PEOPLE: Nick Irwin spills his thoughts on moral responsibilities while working in beauty, and his pet peeve of hairdressers overkilling hair
Interview: Michael Lindsay
Camera: Panos Damaskinidis
Photography: courtesy of Nick Irwin, Emmanuel Robert, Rankin, Arved Colvin-Smith, Luis Monteiro, Ben Cook
Words: Katharina Lina
Special thanks to Nick Irwin, Rankin + Hunger Magazine
Nick Irwin’s versatile career path has allowed him to form an unusually broad understanding of hair. His confident approach makes him just as comfortable in the session world as he is in the salon. With career highlights including previously being appointed creative director at TIGI to his current hair editor role at renowned Hunger Magazine, Irwin has garnered a wealth of industry experience on top of his dedication to the craft, allowing him a bird’s eye view over all things hair.
“I would love to change the perception of what a lot of hairdresser think ‘good hair’ is”
A crucial point in this journey to understanding hair as a full spectrum was an opportunity to work closely with Anthony and Pat Mascolo since the inception of Bedhead studios in 2003. “Anthony and Pat had been in charge of such a juggernaut of a machine at Toni&Guy, to a very humble situation in that studio in Battersea. We looked up to Anthony and Pat as the ultimate creative couple. Four of five of us in there, really starting to learn how to create cool imagery, which is accessible, but then relate it back to the business.”
In this interview with INFRINGE, discussing his perspective on some of hair’s most compelling protagonists, Irwin also talks passionately about the need for a certain level of moral rigour when it comes to the industry’s perpetuation of beauty standards. His thoughts on the importance of challenging singular definitions of beauty go hand-in-hand with his philosophy behind hair photography and avoiding over-processed imagery, “I would love to change the perception of what a lot of hairdresser think ‘good hair’ is.” Irwin explains, “My pet peeve in hairdressing is hair that is overdone.” He elaborates, telling us about one of his personal formulas ‘Eyes first, hands second’, which translates to moving and adjusting with the hair; if the hair still looks good and fits with the narrative, then there is no need to go in and disturb it just to chase some sort of idea of perfection. “I hate to say it because hair is dead, but hair should look alive!”
“Even if you don’t like it, even if you look at it and go ‘that’s shit’, that’s okay! Because we’ve stirred something within you”
With his most recent project IN-SESSION, a streamable event built around conversation with leading sessions stylists, Irwin hopes to bridge the gap between aspiring hairdressers and the sometimes rather elusive behind-the-scenes of the fashion and editorial world. His natural allegiance to the underdog while moving in some of the most elitist spaces is both noteworthy and necessary. We spoke to Irwin about his unique perspective on hair that fuses art, business and a bold aesthetic, his hopes for the hair industry, and take a look at his exceptional career which continues to unfold.